Thursday, March 15, 2012

White Trash Holiday - Galveston Island



The Galveston Gulf

Sugar Snap enjoying mint chocolate chip at La King's
It's Spring Break!  If you are looking for an inexpensive holiday, you really can't beat Galveston Island, especially if you are in the Greater Houston area.  Even if you have to travel a bit to get there, it's worth it.  It's at the same time an hour away and a century away from Houston.  While Houston knocks down any building more than 20 years old to build something new and modern, Galveston values and maintains its history and architecture, both of which are colorful.  Pirates made their home there, after all!  Galveston is a long skinny island, but it's easy to spend time there, and the island is mostly recovered after being devastated by Hurricane Ike in 2008.  Some buildings will never return.  Sadly, the historic Balinese Room which hosted the likes of Frank Sinatra, Peggy Lee, Duke Ellington, and many more - ZZ Top even wrote a song about it - is now resting at the bottom of the Gulf of Mexico.  RIP.  Many other historic treasures have survived and are thriving once again thanks to the dedication of the island residents.  The Galvez Hotel is a beautiful historic hotel that sits across the street from the beach, other historic places to see would be the Garten Verein, an old German beer garden on 0 street,  The Grand Opera House, (see what's playing - it's always something good!) The Bishops Palace, Moody Mansion, and Ashton Villa are all on Broadway, the main street running through the town.   The Strand is a historic shopping district.  Park the car and get out and walk around - it's bound to be a gorgeous day!  Some of our favorite shops are the Fiestaware shop (I collect) and an antique store crammed with great and affordable finds.  Around the corner is Hendley Market (it has odd hours since the hurricane, but please stop in if they are open). It's a fun and funky boutique with items from all over the world.  The Old Strand Emporium is great for the old collection of calliopes, some of which still work.  Buy a beer and a po boy for lunch and enjoy these great old automatic music boxes.  Keep heading toward the Railroad Museum (another fun thing to do) and you will pass Colonel Bubbies military surplus shop.  It's worth going in whether you are a military buff or not.  There are plenty of souvenir shops and kitschy boutiques and cafes along the Strand, but you must stop in and get some ice cream at La King's confectionery.  They make and sell their own ice cream and candy and if you are lucky the candy man will be making taffy on the ancient taffy puller and tossing odd pieces to the crowd that gathers.  They also have an old time soda fountain and coffee bar.   My only complaint with the Strand is that finding a public restroom can be a real challenge.  They are few and far between and as any parent knows if you have a kid who says they have to go, they mean right NOW, so go before you get there.  For eating on the island there is a lot to choose from.  My grandfather's favorite (and he was a foodie before that term was coined) is Gaido's on the Seawall.  They have a giant crab sculpture out front and they have been around forever.  It's a white tablecloth place and a bit pricey, so save it for your special night out.  My favorite are the soft shell crabs.  For more casual dining you might like Fisherman's Wharf on the bay side.  You can dine out over the water which has a not-so-great view of oil rigs, but you can glimpse an occasional dolphin.  You can get an up close look at another of Galveston's gems, the Elissa, a beautifully restored 3 mast sailing ship from the 1870's.          If you are in the mood for Greek, try Olympia Grill - there is also excellent Italian food at Marco's.  There are numerous chain restaurants as well, if you are so inclined.  There are plenty of places to stay right on the seawall from way upscale to downright gross, so suit your budget! Though you might have to contend with a few crowds over Spring Break, you will still find plenty of parking, which is still free along the seawall, and plenty of beach.  Have a great trip!
The Garten Verein